Friday, October 16, 2015

Noxxa Multifunction Pressure Cooker - No Power

Just to share how to fix Noxxa Multifunction Pressure Cooker no power issue.
Symptom: The front panel didn't light up. So let's open it.

Start check the simple things first, temperature fuse continuity? OK, any swollen capacitors? nope!

Next, power it up and check is there any output before (AC) and after the bridge (DC)? YES.

Regulator (7805) output? NO! Found it. Input is about 14V but no output

This is the power supply for the front panel circuit board.

 Desolder it out an do a quick test by it an 12v input

No output at all, compare with the new one

Put it back together again, plus a heat sink to the 7805 regulator. This might prevent it from overheating again, I hope so.

Finallly :-)

Friday, October 03, 2014

Samsung SyncMaster 732NW Power Supply Modification

A Samsung SyncMaster 732NW Monitor came in last 3 weeks into my workshop after getting struck by lightning. This is what happen to the power supply board.

A bad capacitor, several diodes shorted, a blown fuse and blown SMPS Power Switch. Luckily the digital board, LCD and back-light still OK.

This is the heart of SMPS, the chopper (PWM) controller with built-in SenseFET by Fairchild.

Too many parts need to be replaced. So here is the shortcut. :-)

From the schematic diagram, we can see that it requires 2 types of power sources, 15VDC and 5.1VDC. Desktop power supply will do the job. It can supply 12VDC and 5VDC. Lower but tested working fine. 5VDC for the digital board and 12VDC for the back-light inverter.

A quick modification using 4-pin peripheral power connector. Several bulky components removed from the heavily damaged primary section.

There you go...

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Panasonic TH-P42X30K Plasma TV Power Board Fix

This is my own Plasma TV. Symptom, sudden power cut off. Power LED not lit at all when the side power button switched on. According to the service manual [ th_p42x30d_g_k_m_p_s_v_1.pdf ] , this is power board issue.

Trace further and narrow down the search to standby power section. Standby voltage (5V) is totally down.

B159-003 Power Board Block Diagram

This section on the B159-002 power board, component side.

B159-002 Power Board Component Side

This diode fails become short circuit, part of the secondary side of the transformer that feedback to FAN6754 PWM controller pin 2 (FB)

FAN6754 Typical Application schematics, not the actual schematics

It is B3100 diode that should be able to withstand 100V peak and 70V RMS reverse voltage


Replace this FML-G22S, the best I have currently, salvage from old PCB.
It can withstand 200V peak.

Now, I can see the 5V standby voltage. Put everything back together and test.

Will try to find the actual component soon (B3100) for replacement.

Friday, August 16, 2013

Replacing Dell E153FPC 15" LCD Monitor Backlight With LED

My old Dell E153FPC back-light recently failed to light up.Tracing lead me to the bad inverter circuit and broken CCFL back-light.

So replacing with an LED would be a great idea. Refering to Instructables, I'm planning to do the same thing but the LED flex/strip here cost more than a used/refurbished LCD monitor.

A cheap solution is by creating my own LED bar. 3 white LEDs in series with current limiting resistor. Calculated to works with 12VDC.

The CCFL backlights have been removed earlier but I did not snap any image during the process. Please Google for this. Next, test the LED back-light.

Does not look like what you expected? Wait until you turn it on.

Connect it to 12VDC source that can be found on the power supply board. A fuse added just in case. Use a detachable connector for easy troubleshooting later on.

Tadaa! although the light source does not emit its rays uniformly, but for me this is enough since I'm planning to use this monitor just for PC troubleshooting.

Finally, put them back together again. From now on, this monitor is no longer an LCD Monitor but an LED Monitor :-)

Samsung Syncmaster 2043 Flickering Fix

Received Samsung Syncmaster 2043 from a friend, suffering from a flickering problem.
Quick search from internet advice to look for a crack/swollen capacitor(s)

Immedialtly found 2 bad capacitors. What a luck!. Replace 2 new 1000µF 10V capacitors...

and put it back together again.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Arduino Controlled Water Boiler and Warmer / Thermo Pot

I have an electric water boiler and warmer AKA thermo pot which was struck by lightning. The circuit board was heavily damaged beyond repair.

But the good news is all other parts such as heating elements, DC motor pump and temperature sensor still OK. So this is how the project started.

Before this project started, I did talk to my brother about Arduino. Sounds like fun. So I give them a try. I choose Arduino Uno for this project since it is highly recommended for a beginner.

Typical electric water boiler and warmer has 2 heating elements, boiler and warmer.
  • Boiler : 3A : 80Ω : 720W
  • Warmer : 0.6A : 390Ω : 144W
The DC motor pump working voltage is DC 9V.

I'm not sure what type of temperature sensor used by this boiler but from my study, it measures;
  • Around 100kΩ when 33°C (room temp)
  • Around 10kΩ when 100°C (boiled)
The question now is how to translate this value 100kΩ<=>10kΩ to  33°C<=>100°C? I start with a simple voltage divider, 5V DC, smoothing E capacitor and link them to Arduino pin A0 (AnalogInput)...

  • R5 = 10kΩ
  • C1 = 1µF
...wrote a simple program as below to get the AnalogInput value during both room temperature and boiled temperature.
int sensorPin = A0;

void setup() {

void loop() {
From this test it reads...
  • Analog Value 116 while 33°C (room temp)
  • Analog Value 594 while 100°C (boiled)
So a simple linear equation (y = mx + c) in a function like below could be used to read the analog input and translate them to °C
float getTemp(int sensorValue){
  float y1 = 100;
  float x1 = 594;
  float y2 = 33;
  float x2 = 116;
  float m = (y1 - y2) / (x1 - x2);
  float c = y1 - (m * x1);
  return (m * sensorValue) + c;
From there I continue with other features;

16X2 LCD to show status and temperature. (pin D8 - D13). Notice that I ignore the contrast control pin? This because this LCD display is an old display that is having problem. :-( so I leave the pin open.

Unlock button, using Interrupt (pin D2) that will enable the pump and light up the LCD back-light for a period of time. I'm too lazy to built the Debounce module for this button so I use a capacitor :-)

Outputs (pin D5 and D6) to turn on boiler and warmer thru transistors and relays.

Buzzer (pin D4) for overheat alert, 1kHz tone.

Complete schematic diagram

Flow chart below would explain the system flow.

Complete Arduino sketch

#include <LiquidCrystal.h>

LiquidCrystal lcd(13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8);
int sensorPin = A0;            //temp sensor analog in pin
int samplingRate = 500;        //sampling/pulse rate
int unlockInt = 0;             //interrupt value not pin
int unlockTimer = 10000;       //unlocked timer in msec
int unlockTimerCount = 0;
int lcdBackLightPin =  7;      //lcd backlight signal pin
int lcdBackLightState = LOW;   //lcd initial state
int warmerPin = 5;             //warmer signal pin
int boilerPin = 6;             //boiler signal pin
boolean boiling = false;
int boiledTimer = 10000;       //in msec
int boiledTimerCount = 0;
int warmLowLimit = 80;
int warmHiLimit = 85;
int reboilTemp = 65;
int boiledTemp = 95;
int emcyTemp = 105;
int buzzerPin = 4;
int buzzerFreq = 500;

void setup() {
  // set up the LCD's number of columns and rows:
  lcd.begin(16, 2);
  lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
  lcd.print("Temp =");

  //set up unlock int pin
  attachInterrupt(unlockInt, unlock, RISING);

  //set lcd backlight signal pin
  pinMode(lcdBackLightPin, OUTPUT);

  //set warmer & boiler pin
  pinMode(warmerPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(boilerPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(buzzerPin, OUTPUT);

void loop() {
  float temp = getTemp(analogRead(sensorPin));

void checkOverHeat(float localTemp){
  if(localTemp >= emcyTemp){
    int buzzerPinState = LOW;
    digitalWrite(boilerPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(warmerPin, LOW);
    lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      digitalWrite(buzzerPin, buzzerPinState);
      buzzerPinState = !buzzerPinState;

void heatingFunc(float localTemp){
    if(localTemp < reboilTemp){
      boiling = true;
      boiledTimerCount = boiledTimer;
      digitalWrite(boilerPin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(warmerPin, LOW);
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("Boiler ON");
    }else if(localTemp < warmLowLimit){
      digitalWrite(warmerPin, HIGH);
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("Warmer ON");
    }else if(localTemp > warmHiLimit){
      digitalWrite(warmerPin, LOW);
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("Warmer OFF");
    if(localTemp > boiledTemp){
      boiledTimerCount = boiledTimerCount - samplingRate;
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("C hitted");
    if(boiledTimerCount <= 0){
      digitalWrite(boilerPin, LOW);
      boiling = false;
      lcd.setCursor(0, 1);
      lcd.print("Boiler OFF");

void lcdClearLine(int lineNo){
  lcd.setCursor(0, lineNo);
  lcd.print("                ");

void checkUnlock(){
  if(lcdBackLightState == HIGH){
    unlockTimerCount = unlockTimerCount - samplingRate;
    if(unlockTimerCount <= 0){
      lcdBackLightState = LOW;
      digitalWrite(lcdBackLightPin, lcdBackLightState);

void unlock(){
  lcdBackLightState = HIGH;
  unlockTimerCount = unlockTimer;
  digitalWrite(lcdBackLightPin, lcdBackLightState);

float getTemp(int sensorValue){
  float y1 = 100;
  float x1 = 594;
  float y2 = 33;
  float x2 = 116;
  float m = (y1 - y2) / (x1 - x2);
  float c = y1 - (m * x1);
  return (m * sensorValue) + c;

void printTemp(float localTemp){
  //clear last 10 char
  lcd.setCursor(6, 0);
  lcd.print("          ");
    lcd.setCursor(8, 0);
  else if(localTemp>9){
    lcd.setCursor(9, 0);
    lcd.setCursor(10, 0);

The flow is quite similar to the original design and other model/brand. Reboil at 65°C, stop boiling several minutes after 95°C, cut off at 105°C. I did salvage an old circuit board from a different model of boiler and found 3 thermostats 65°C, 95°C and 105°C. So I guess all boilers are using the similar flow.

The final test...


Next is to built a proper circuit board and put it back together in one piece.

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